Portland, OR has long been a site of underground food buzz. Lately, it has gained national attention with its burgeoning food cart culture, a movement that has seen a reemergence of street food valor and small business clout. Southerly winds have brought the trend south to the bay area and, thanks to our diverse population, our food trucks, carts, stands and shacks boast an unparalleled palatal
variety. Parsley Sage Rosemary & Thyme launched its first lunch truck, called Louisiana Territory’s Cajun Cookin’, less than a year ago, featuring cat fish po’ boys, pasta Lafitte, jambalaya and bread pudding, to name a few of your favorites. Now, in response to consistent customer prodding, we are soon to launch two new lunch trucks, giving me excuse enough to do a research and development assignment in Portland. When your industry gets wheels, you have to move far and fast to keep up.
Portland, a place my mother affectionately describes as her little big city, has four distinct quarters at its base, and many other pocket neighborhoods therein. The Willamette River divides the East from the West, and the historic Burnside Boulevard cuts the South from the North. This weekend we’ll hit up two of Portland’s mobile food Mecca’s: Cartopia on SE 12th and Hawthorne, and The Mississippi Marketplace on N Mississippi.
Cartopia: SE 12th and Hawthorne
Six or seven young entrepreneurs hang their arms out of the customer windows of their distinctly themed vendors, all parked in a gravel lot that neighbors Tiny’s Coffee House.
Bubba Bernie’s is Portland’s Cajun counterpart to our Louisiana Territory’s Cajun Cookin, so this one really is required eating. We order a popcorn shrimp po’ boy, served on a French roll, like ours. Unlike ours, however, the roll is cut all the way through, which means it’s that much less mobile. Nonetheless, it was crunchy in all the right places and juicy the rest of the way through with a remoulade that is hot, sassy and brave.
In an adjecent corner, the locally renowned Whiffies Fried Pie Cart serves up sweet and savory pies, and the sweet ones are entirely vegan. We get the corned beef hash pie to split. The pastry is perfectly flakey and chewy, no small achievement for an eggless dough, and the tender beef filling is piping hot.
For our third course we hit up Potato Champion, known in recent headlines for their participation in Portland’s naked bike ride, awarding the first 50 bike wielding bodies with fries galore. They offer paper cones filled with Belgian style frites, but we order the wildcard, poutine, a Quebeçoise dish of frites topped with cheese curd and an opaque, brown gravy. The fries themselves are great- crispy and fluffy. So if cheese curd isn’t your thing, order the fries and experiment with a few sauces. There must be a saucier hiding somewhere in that truck, because these guys have everything you could ever want to put on a fry, but with a gourmet twist: horseradish ketchup, rosemary truffle ketchup, mayonnaise, pesto mayonnaise, tarragon anchovy mayo (our favorite), Dijon mustard, and hot mustard.
In essence, Cartopia is a perfect fourth meal cafeteria. Most of the dishes here are a little greasy, a little indulgent, and entirely recommended for a late night snack before heading home after a few drinks with friends.
Mississippi Marketplace: N. Mississippi and Skidmore
Ten or twelve carts surround a covered eating area. The Garden State Cart is a stainless steel rectangle whose menu is written in day-glo pens directly on the surface of the wagon. This is both for aesthetic appeal and practicality- items are sold out and altered every few minutes, requiring a menu that is updateable in real time. Boasting “Italian Street Food from the Willamette Valley”, The Garden State Cart won Willamette Week’s Eat Mobile Cart festival this April in the overall tastiness category. I order the Arancine, four balls of risotto rice and cheese, fried, saffron seasoned and dusted with breadcrumbs. Debbie tells me that Arancine is the effect of Italian families with risotto surpluses: they industriously transformed leftover risotto into this creative side. It’s delicious, of course. Fried risotto- How could you go wrong?
My friend Ana, a Portland native, has recently reformed to vegetarianism. She orders from The Native Bowl, who features an all vegan menu that reads like a prelude to Portland. Its “bowl” items, belonging to the Cafe Yum genre, lovingly reference Portland street names. Ana gets the Mississippi Bowl, a vegan BBQ variety served in a Chinese to-go box with jasmine rice, peppercorn ranch sauce, BBQ soy curls (where the chicken would normally go), house coleslaw, and scallions. This one is the winner at our table, and becomes Debbie’s muse for our recent addition to the Louisiana Territory’s Cajun Cookin’ menu, The Bend Bowl, a medley of brown and red rices, barley, rye, red beans, infused with garlic hummus, with generous amounts of cheddar cheese, avocado, scallions, cilantro, Fagé greek yogurt, and topped with Sriracha hot chili sauce.
The next time you’re in Portland, check out http://www.foodcartsportland.com for more food cart profiles organized by food and by neighborhood. In the meantime, look for Louisiana Territory’s Cajun Cookin’ on Facebook for updates on times and location, and check out our webpage at http://www.thelouisianaterritory.com for news of our upcoming sister trucks.